Croatia

Over 1,000 islands line the Dalmatian coast, connected by ferries, catamarans and sailing routes. Hvar draws the glamorous crowd with lavender fields, Venetian architecture and yacht-set nightlife at Carpe Diem beach club. Korčula claims Marco Polo as its native son and produces superb white wines. Brač has Zlatni Rat — the famous beach that changes shape with the wind and current. Vis, a former Yugoslav military base closed to foreigners until 1989, is the most unspoilt of the major islands: the Blue Cave, abandoned military tunnels, and fish restaurants where the catch arrives by boat while you eat. The Kornati archipelago (89 uninhabited islands) is a sailor's paradise. Jadrolinija ferries are the main operator — book well ahead in July-August.

Dubrovnik's complete circuit of medieval walls (2 km, EUR 35 entry) offers stunning Adriatic views — the Old Town inside is a UNESCO masterpiece of Baroque and Gothic architecture, and Game of Thrones fans will recognise virtually every corner as King's Landing. Split's Diocletian's Palace is a 1,700-year-old Roman complex that evolved into a living city centre — cafés serve espresso where emperors bathed. Zadar's Sea Organ plays music from the waves, and the Sun Salutation lights up at dusk. Šibenik's Cathedral of St James (UNESCO) is built entirely from stone without a single brick. Trogir's medieval centre (UNESCO) sits on a tiny island connected by bridges. Zagreb's Upper Town has Austro-Hungarian charm, street art and a Museum of Broken Relationships.

Croatia is one of the world's premier sailing destinations: sheltered bays, reliable winds (maestral in summer), hundreds of anchorages, and marinas in every major port. Charter a bareboat or join a flotilla from Split, Dubrovnik or Šibenik. Beyond sailing: sea kayaking along Dubrovnik's walls and around the Elaphiti Islands, diving off Vis (shipwrecks, Blue Cave), windsurfing at Bol on Brač (Zlatni Rat catches consistent afternoon winds), and white-water rafting on the Cetina River near Omiš. Snorkelling is rewarding almost anywhere along the coast — the Adriatic clarity is exceptional.

Plitvice Lakes (UNESCO) — 16 cascading turquoise lakes connected by waterfalls through primeval beech forest, walkable on wooden boardwalks. Europe's most photogenic national park; visit early morning to avoid summer crowds. Krka National Park offers the rare privilege of swimming beneath waterfalls at Skradinski Buk. The Kornati archipelago: 89 uninhabited islands of stark, lunar beauty. Paklenica for serious rock climbing beneath the Velebit mountains. Mljet National Park: a forested island with a saltwater lake containing an island with a Benedictine monastery — layers within layers. Biokovo Nature Park above the Makarska Riviera for dramatic Adriatic panoramas.

Istria's truffle country rivals Piedmont: white truffles (autumn, hunted with trained dogs in the Motovun forest) and black truffles year-round, served shaved over pasta, eggs and steak. Istrian olive oils win international awards. Dalmatian cuisine lives on the sea: grilled whole fish, black risotto with cuttlefish ink, peka (meat or octopus slow-cooked under an iron bell with potatoes), pršut (air-dried Dalmatian prosciutto), and Pag cheese from the windswept island of Pag. Indigenous wines are a revelation: Plavac Mali and Dingač reds from the Pelješac peninsula, Grk white from Korčula, Malvasia from Istria, and Babić from Primošten. Konoba (traditional taverna) culture means family-run restaurants with daily catches and local wines.

Zlatni Rat on Brač — the iconic white-pebble beach that shifts its tip with the wind and current, backed by pine forest. The hidden coves of Vis, reachable only by boat or scramble. Dubrovnik's Banje Beach with the Old Town as backdrop. Šunj Beach on Lopud — a rare sandy beach in a country of pebbles. The Makarska Riviera's string of beaches beneath the Biokovo mountains. Stiniva Cove on Vis (voted Europe's best beach) — a tiny strip of pebbles between towering cliffs. Croatian beaches are predominantly pebble and rock rather than sand — bring water shoes. The water clarity throughout is exceptional, often with 30+ metres visibility.